Bonnie Carr

A deep dive into GORE-TEX by Document Studios for SNS Illustration by Gangbox

Bonnie is a design consultant, outerwear connoisseur, writer and founder of Not For Archiving, an IG-based knowledge bank for technical sportswear where Bonnie takes apart garments to structurally and culturally contextualise them.

When was the first time you heard about GORE-TEX?

I was a kid obsessed with bikes and how things work. I can remember the dude who would help me with an old BMX I was given, aged six or seven maybe? He wore a GORE-TEX jacket. This wasn't the point of me becoming more aware of technical functionality. This came a few years after, on seeing Moreno's Urban Protection range for C.P. and wondering how it was all assembled as a super curious near-teen.

Can you remember which garment the BMX guy wore?

I can yeah haha, it was a Berghaus Gore, similar to what Berg continues to make these days. A classic. Just as an aside, this was also the first time my brain logged outdoors brands being worn by people I saw as cool and interesting. You know, those I could learn from, basically.

Have you ever come across GORE-TEX in other cultural expressions?

It seeps into music and now art for sure. Have you seen Karel Funk's work? It's so cool man. I think this whole reappropriation thing is where GORE-TEX becomes a cultural expression and a brand in its own right - even the name itself is part of this cross-over. Gore, it’s a weighty, magnetic sounding name, no? And this has a tangible part to play in its ability to be interesting to different social demographics. I mean, just google GORE-TEX in lyrics. It's referenced a lot these days and represents an ultimate standard, GORE-TEX taking the role of urban guardian now, as well as the protector halfway up a Swiss mountain. It has become strong imagery over the last few years. Changing from something protective and safe to something defensive and volatile. This is the transition I love so much when the immaculate falls into the hands of the disgruntled or sub-culturally motivated. I mean it doesn't even 'fall' it’s taken, swiped, grabbed at by the 'underclasses'.

How do you think GORE-TEX is seen culturally, as in beyond its pure technical qualities?

It’s seen as the benchmark for quality. Over time it's become a hack for people to display clout. For example, you buy monogram Fendi for its obvious association, right? Anyone coming down the road will clock your expensive trousers. It's the same currently for the GORE-TEX Infinium logo. Like I would notice that on a jacket and appreciate its value. So perhaps what we are witnessing is the appreciation of technical materials in the same way we would appreciate silk or other incredibly expensive fabrics. Whether it says Gucci or GORE-TEX now, it's being judged within the same arena.

How would you describe and define GORE-TEX?

I would describe GORE-TEX as the standardisation of garment technology. A benchmark. It's important now more than ever as not only do we need functional materials more, a genuine need, as everyday climates and pollutants change. It has also become a cultural mirror- as some fabrics do, fur for example. The reflection of unrest, of defensiveness, of covert manoeuvrability, a Covid reminder, a physical thing that joins and separates socially, in equal measure.

Any moments you can think of when GORE-TEX technology saved your day?

Honestly? Recently, only from downpours or my dog being an idiot in the forest. I could not and would not pretend to be hanging about on icy precipices in environmental danger haha. But, I will say it's probably kept me safe in the city at night more times than I'm aware of. Being a female and moving around in a genderless black swath of GORE-TEX, synched, face covered is extremely empowering and although culturally dark, gives me the ability to appear unassailable, as who or what I am is 90% unknown. So you know what? Yes, GORE-TEX has probably saved me from some sticky dimly lit situations. As a woman living alone in East London, this is invaluable.

What brands impress you in their use of GORE-TEX?

I like what Goldwin's Japan team do, I'm also into C.P. Company re-looking at the Metropolis Series as a future-facing piece for 2022 and beyond and I like Veilance's simple implementation. But, in my opinion, no-one is catching up with Stone Island’s fabric development over the decades. I can't even see how it's possible to remove Massimo Osti from that throne and I certainly wouldn't want to. So actually, let's celebrate the masters of material development and not always look to the 'new' for better implementation and usage.

How do you see GORE-TEX’s role in footwear develop?

I think GORE-TEX is incredibly robust in footwear. It blocks weather impact, protects from cold air, whilst warming and shielding the foot, we know this right? I do wonder how the evolution of excellent sports brands like Norda will change the future path of technical materials in sport-specific footwear. Their development in the area of Bio-Dyneema running shoes for example, could really be persuasive at a level far wider than runners and trail lovers alone.

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